Lighting your subject

[David Dowbyhuz]

Does anyone have a simple secret to basic, good lighting to place your subject in "their best light"? I'm referring to lighting that is a good bet at most times, not dramatic "effect" lighting.

I know the basics; one source, reflector board to fill in shadows, but what is the best artificial light source to throw at your subject?

Do I have to buy fancy photographer-grade lamps, filters, reflector-umbrellas, etc? (Hope not.)

[Steve Moppert]

I have found two artificial light systems that work well. One is the Photoflex Silverdome (Lightbox) with a 1000 watt lamp, and a blue color correcting gel in place of the large white diffuser. This combination produces a beautiful soft daylight corrected light. The other system is a Lowel Caselite 4, with four color corrected flourescent lamps. The Lowel is more compact for travel and easier to set up, but it's heavy and expensive. An advantage to the Lowel is that it comes in a durable self contained case.

Steve

[Michael Georges]

Originally posted by David Dowbyhuz
Do I have to buy fancy photographer-grade lamps, filters, reflector-umbrellas, etc? (Hope not.)

Actually, that is the route I have just taken - though, not overly expensive. I went to a site called B&H Photography and bought a Smith-Victor Photography Lighting Kit - the K42-ua Quartz Lighting Kit - $319.

http://www01.bhphotovideo.com/defaul...ID=EAA3E17EFE0

(The forum keeps truncating the URL to the actual kit, but that will at least get you to the site.)

It is a continuous lighting system. I have used strobe flash systems before, but prefer to actually see my lighting...hence the constant lighting system. Plus, it's portable.

[Steve Moppert]

I looked up the Smith-Victor K-42 Lighting Kit, it appears to be a compact relatively inexpensive unit, but the DYH 600 watt lamps are 3200k, very yellow, what are you doing to raise the kelvin temperature so you can work under them? Do you use them only for photography with a color correcting filter on your camera?

[Michael Georges]

I will use them for photography only. I don't yet have any color correction plans as I have yet to receive them and experiment. If they do turn out to be a little yellow, then I will likely compensate for it in my painting process. I use photos mainly to help me nail the values of the piece and to aid in composition. I try to match flesh tones directly to the live subject where possible.

[Chris Saper]

Dear Steve,

Your 3200 lights are Tungsten lights. Buy Tungsten rated slide film (also 3200 degrees Kelvin) from either Kodak or Fuji. It comes in several different speeds, too. I am not aware of any tungsten rated film that produces prints, but there may such a product.

To match your lights to regular daylight film, get color corrected bulbs. They should be rated at 5000-5500 Kelvin.

When your light temperature and film match, you will get the best color match possible through film, better than having to use blue filters, etc. You should also use your tungsten lights and film to take slides of your finished work. You need to do this in a place that is otherwise dark, so you don't get confounding color in the resulting slide. Good luck!

Chris

[Abdi R Malik]

Hello David,


I would like to share my opinion. Does any portrait painter really need a fancy sophisticated lighting system?.

I completely work by photograph which is average SLR camera and simple attached flash light, so far nothing wrong with it. Of course the result not as good as with advanced lighting system. You can not emulate natural daylight.

In my opinion being an artist, portrait painter one has to have ability to enhance the appearance of the subject on canvas. You with your paint emulate the natural light not the light system. Perception in light and shadow is the key. I would rather set the lighting for painting than taking photograph. John Howard Sanden painting with light attached on the easel. Lets see what old masters did in the past with no light system. They created masterpieces with brilliant light and shadow, natural skin tone, dress etc. Have a looked at Caravaggio & Rembrandt as if they had the light system,indoor.

Lighting system is good but that does not mean one should acquire them in order to paint better. If you have the money feel free to buy it.

I apologize for my words, I am not a native English speaker.

Best Regards,
Abdi

[Stanka Kordic]

My approach is to walk around the chosen environment with the sitter, looking for the best window light (if indoors). I fill with a white or gold reflector in the shadow area if necessary. If it's truly low light, I use a tripod. My film is 400asa. This has worked 99% of the time.

For fidgety kids, I shoot a roll of 800asa.

The one time I needed additional light for a Mary Cassatt-type scenario (on the bed w/child) I used my floodlight (pretty basic I know). It worked just fine.

~stanka

[Steve Moppert]

Hello Abdi,

A light system doesn't have to be fancy or sophisticated, a simple cheap floodlight will work if there is enough ambient light in the room to lighten the shadows. If used at night or in a dark room a flood is too harsh and the shadows too dark. Camera mounted flash is totally unnatural, and has the look of a snapshot. No one ever sees a person in real life, with the light that a camera mounted flash produces. If the flash is used off camera it's acceptable.

Steve

[Abdi R Malik]

Hi Steve,

Thank you, I think you got the point. Since I am a beginner in portrait painting I was wondering should I need that advanced light system?. Most pros are discussing it. But What if someone does not have. Is there any alternative? Then You mentioned floodlight which is cheap, even though inferior.

My point is painter should have a keen perception of light & shadow just like the old masters had done.

Some day I might need that light system.

Regards,
Abdi