 |
|
06-10-2007, 06:22 PM
|
#1
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
Thank you Richard for taking the time to respond.
I have to try this technique sometime. In the meantime it will be interesting to hear the different type of approaches that have worked for others.
|
|
|
06-11-2007, 10:33 AM
|
#2
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
After trying varies ways to make sense of the jumble of links on the medallion, I decided to keep the mid brown underpainting and to use a method similar to erasing out.
For this purpose I have used a very old mini brush (almost worn down to the ferule), which I dipped into solvent and basically scratched out the lightest links. Then using my pen again, I reemphasized the darks.
Taking into consideration that this is the underpainting, there is no fear of compromising the surface quality. This technique worked nicely and the chains have taken form given me a little road map for the successive paint layers.
|
|
|
06-11-2007, 03:45 PM
|
#3
|
SOG Member
Joined: May 2007
Location: Naperville, IL
Posts: 31
|
I don't know if this suggestion will be entirely helpful, but when painting jewelry, often I've found that the level of detail and inherent wide value range can create a focal point in your painting where you didn't intend one. So, I try to make it very soft.
The method I like to use is to model the jewelry in a narrower value range, leaving out one or two steps of both the darkest and lightest values. Then paint back in wet with the darkest values so the edges will be super soft, leaving lights and catch lights for last. I like the ropy cremnitz white too, but last time I used flake and a little stand oil, and worked the highlights in tiny adjacent dots. (Thank you, Jan Vermeer!)
|
|
|
06-12-2007, 12:45 AM
|
#4
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
Thank you Lisa for your response. I love to hear how people tackle things differently. There are always new ways to be learned and mental notes to be taken what to watch out for to avoid the little pitfalls.
Quote:
wide value range can create a focal point in your painting where you didn't intend one.
|
You are absolutely right, but in this figurative piece it's really all about the head dress and the theme of "water".
My model is actually the designer of this piece. She designs costumes and writes about tribal costuming for a magazine in the
U. K. This head dress was featured in her recent article and it is one of a series about the four elements.
I find your suggestions very helpful and I will keep them in mind once I start work in the color layers.
Here is a nice painting of jewelery by Luis Falero "An Oriental Beauty"
|
|
|
06-13-2007, 10:17 AM
|
#5
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
Here is something I found in "Beyond the Naked Eye"
Quote:
When making images Renaissance painters were ingenious in their exploitation of their materials. To present golden objects gold leaf could be used, often in the form of mordant gilding, in which the shape or pattern to be gilded was painted with an adhesive substance, the mordant.
Gold leaf was then laid over it, adhering to the sticky mordant but not to the dry surface of the surroundings paint. Alternatively, gold leaf could be powdered and mixed with a binder to make gold paint, usually called "shell gold"because it was traditionally kept in mussel shells. In the Netherlands in the early 15th century painters began to create the illusion of metallic objects with paint alone, the lustre and reflective properties of gold indicated by highlights of lead-tin yellow. This pigment has considerable bulk when applied in oil; if details such as the gold threads in a cloth-of-gold-fabric are viewed in raking light, the relief becomes strikingly apparent. Raking light reveals the texture of oil paint and the direction of brushstrokes. A stroke made with a paint containing dense lead-based pigments may form ridges of impasto. Brushes can be used to manipulate the colours while they are still soft so that they bleed into one another or displace the paint of previous strokes the technique of wet-in-wet painting. Soft oil can also be worked with implements other than the brush. Campin used a pointed stick (perhaps the other end of a brush) to indent the fabric edges of a folded linen headdress, while Van Eyck actually scraped the wet paint away to indicate the bristles of a dusting brush.
|
For those following my progress, a new image of the work in progress has been uploaded here:
http://world-market-portraits.blogspot.com/
|
|
|
06-16-2007, 12:20 PM
|
#6
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
For those of you interested in getting some ideas about painting pearls look here:
http://www.geocities.com/~jlhagan/lessons/perl.htm
|
|
|
06-17-2007, 06:25 PM
|
#7
|
Juried Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Blackfoot Id
Posts: 431
|
Great for "photo shoppers", I suppose . . . and a case in point how computer-generated images can fall down.
The "highlight" point of view remained the same on each pearl in the string. Re-read the part about "learning how to observe". Back to class!
|
|
|
06-30-2007, 02:45 PM
|
#8
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
I have been doing a lot of reworking on "Blue Tribe". I got rid of the heavy necklace and substituted it with a lighter one. The chains are completed and only need a few touch ups.
For close-ups of the jewelery and some additional information
Click here:
|
|
|
07-05-2007, 05:21 PM
|
#9
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
To paint brass objects, there are various way of color choices. For example, you could use Burnt Umber and Cadmium Yellow Light to get the main color of the object. For the shadows a bit of Alizarin Crimson and Black will do the trick. Highlights could be achieved with Cadmium Yellow light and White.
Added July 6th
Since I try to limit my use of Cadmiums, I get the same colors by mixing Raw Umber and Yellow Ochre Light into various values. White is added for the lightest values of that yellow string. Highlights are done in the lightest Yellow value plus White.
To get the shadows richer I add Alizarin Crimson, it is a transparent hue and rather than alternating the color, just adds a nice glow when used as a wash over the Umber.
Remember to have lost and found edges. The lost edges are created by values that are extremly close to each other.
To add a sense of turning of the armband watch how the light will change direction and how things become more muted (add grey to desaturate) and with less definition (no sharp lines/blend) as they turn into the shadows.
For larger views click on the images in my blog. Details of the ring and necklace can also be found there.
|
|
|
07-17-2007, 11:56 AM
|
#10
|
Associate Member SoCal-ASOPA Founder FT Professional
Joined: Sep 2002
Location: Laguna Hills, CA
Posts: 1,395
|
I have to apologize to those following the progress of how to paint chains/jewelery. On a recent visit to my daughter's in San Fransisco, I had another encounter with a very stubborn kidney stone that landed me in the hospital. Needless to say, the "Blue Tribe" painting did not get touched and therefore there has been this laps in postings.
This is as far as I got....
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing this Topic: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|
|
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:31 AM.
|