Framing and 'finishing'

Joan Breckwoldt · 08-03-2004, 09:21 PM

Hello everyone,

I have a question regarding framing a portrait myself. I have a beautiful from from JFM and the portrait to go in it. I have framed some small oils myself, I attach the canvas wrapped stretchers with a hammer and thin nails, then cover the back of the entire frame with brown mailing paper. Then I screw in the little eye screws (?) and attach the wire. Viola! Ready to hang.

But, with a 22"x28" portrait, I'm guessing there is a better way to do this with special little dohickeys that probably have a special name. I'm also working on a 24"x36" portrait that I"ll want to frame hopefully in a couple of weeks.

I'm tring to avoid walking in to the local frame shop because I don't think they would be too happy about me supplying my own frame, that's how they make a lot of their money I'm assuming. And I think their labor charges would be very high to make up for not supplying the frame. Though I suppose this is an option to get a professional looking job.

So, how do you all frame the portrait once the frame is out of the box? Any information would be very helpful.

Thank you,

Joan

Michele Rushworth · 08-04-2004, 12:22 AM

The "dohickeys" you want are called "offsets" and you can get them from http://www.aswexpress.com art supplies.

They're hard to describe but the best way for me to explain is that they are little Z shaped pieces of metal that you screw into the frame. They extend inwards over the edges of the canvas holding it in place. The offsets come in various depths, depending on the depth of your canvas stretchers.

Mary Sparrow · 08-04-2004, 06:42 AM

I have also found those offsets at Lowe's. You can buy them indidually in one of those giant drawers, and sometimes you can buy them in packs of four complete with eyescrews and wire. They are in the section where the nails and screws are and grouped with the items to mount and hang mirrors.

Joan Breckwoldt · 08-04-2004, 12:42 PM

Thank you Michele and Mary,

Those offsets sounds like just what I was looking for! Framing really isn't hard at all with the right equipment. Thanks,

Joan

Patt Legg · 08-08-2004, 05:54 AM

Joan

I haven't been here for awhile so take this with a grain of salt but I felt the need to assert my findings here . As for the brown paper backing, take heed. I just undid one that I had for awhile and didn't know better. I took off the paper and the canvas had begun to mildew on the back. I may be wrong but I had always heard not to cover the back of oils. I do not ever cover mine now.

Good Luck

Patt

Mary Sparrow · 08-08-2004, 07:00 AM

Pat,
You are right. I just had this discussion with my local framer. She does put paper on the back of oils to give it a nice clean "finished" look. However she has a big circle cut out of the back of the paper to allow the air to move around freely.

Joan Breckwoldt · 08-09-2004, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mary Smith

she has a big circle cut out of the back of the paper to allow the air to move around freely.

Hmm. . . . okay, if you guys say so! Thank you Patt and Mary for that information, I never knew to leave the back open for circulation.

Joan

Ramon Deslauriers · 08-10-2004, 08:24 PM

Hi Joan,

I work as a picture framer, and have been for over five years. I've framed many paintings stretched on canvas, so I thought I'd give you some insights.

The offset clips are great because they're acid-free and don't damage the stretcher bars. I'm a visual person, so there's an attachment of what an offset looks like and how it fits over the bar. There are a couple of things I'd like to add though.

Instead of using screw-eyes, I'd suggest using strap hangers (see attachment, and forgive the crude "mouse" drawing). They lay flat against the frame moulding, and look a lot cleaner. Plus,the wire you use should be plastic coated to protect clients' walls.

Also, the way the back is finished is just as important as the finish of the front side. The cleaner the back of the frame looks the better. Especially if it's for a client. The back of a frame left unfinished looks just that way - unfinished. Yes, it's true that you want to let the canvas breathe, so a hole is necessary. But, I would definitely cover all the unsightly bars and unfinished moulding. Yet, the worse backing you want to use is the kraft paper. It's terribly acidic. There is a paper product available by Lineco that comes in rolls which is acid-free (it's a light blue color). That's what you should use (or something similar).

One final thing. If you're looking to keep your portrait as protected as possible, use aluminum tape to line the rabbet of the frame that the painting will set into. This will help protect your painting from the acids in the wood. Lineco also makes this product. They call it Frame Sealing Tape (no, I'm not a Lineco rep.).

Hope this fills you in,
Ramon

Michele Rushworth · 08-10-2004, 11:56 PM

Ramon, thanks for your expert reply. What frame place do you work for? I'm in Seattle too and would like to know where I could send my clients so that they could work with someone like you who clearly knows what he is doing.

Kimberly Dow · 08-11-2004, 12:30 AM

I just wanted to mention that I have always found friendly frame shops that would do odd jobs for me. For example: I take in the frame and they do all the necessary work for $7. Or the fella that used to stretch all my canvas' like the 50x70 for $15. I provided all the supplies and he was happy to do it. If it is a particularly busy place they will not have time, but if you find a good small frame shop they will usually do that kind of thing.