Brush brands

Gary Hoff · 07-11-2006, 07:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard Bingham

:...natural bristle brushes use carefully selected hairs that have "split ends", i.e., they are "flagged". The hairs have a slight natural curve, and it's the master brush-maker's craft to assemble (cup) an amount of hair properly...

I've had similar experiences, Rich. I don't know why that clipping business happens but my hunch is that its because they either use a lower quality bristle, or perhaps they're using the cut ends of other bristles (the tips already having been used), or they simply don't know any better.

As I understand it, the reason why the flags are so desireable is because they add to the volume of paint the bristles will hold when the brush is charged.

Richard Bingham · 07-11-2006, 08:15 PM

That's just so, Gary. Even more, each hair is a "tool" of special shape. From the flag through the shaft, the hair tapers, which makes it possible to manipulate the brush with accuracy and tact. Trying to paint with a brush which has been clipped is like trying to drive an 18 wheeler through a BMX course.

Sharon Knettell · 07-11-2006, 08:44 PM

Here is their web-site: http://shop.raphael.fr

There is a description of their manufacture.

These brushes are not cut or clipped but in my opinion beautifully formed, at least the numbers I posted.

I like them much better than the Silver Brushes, which in my opinion are overrated.

There is a painting I did way back on unveiling's called "Alicia Rose" which I did completely with the aforementioned brushes. I would use few else, since quality and performance are paramount to me. The Kevrins are wonderful for faces as you can manipulate the stroke from the flat side to the thin edge quite beautifully. They wear like iron. I have gotten them both from NY Central and the Italian Art Store and have never had the problem you described. Very confusing.

But as they say different strokes for different folks. You have to find the brush that performs best for you. I have tried them all, even ordering brushes from Cornellisens in the UK.

Joan Breckwoldt · 07-11-2006, 08:58 PM

My two instructors recommended Robert Simmons Signet bristle filbert brushes, which I have been using for the most part. I like the way they hold and manipulate paint, but the bristles start to splay out after about 3 paintings and I am constrantly replacing them.

I also use the da vinci brushes, the series 1845 black sables are wonderful. I've had some of mine for years. They are still luscious and thick and a joy to paint with. I also use the da vinci maestro bristle brushes and like them. I also have some da vinci series 1865 brushes, they are also wonderful, I'm just not sure what they are. I'm guessing some kind of sable. The da vinci's are made in Germany.

In a pinch I use I've used some Grumbacher filberts that I've had a long time, they have held up very well.

After reading the helpful info on this post, I'm going to get away from my Robert Simmons brushes and experiment with some others.

Joan

Chris Kolupski · 07-12-2006, 11:35 AM

Richard said earlier that Dick Blick Masterstroke and Silverbrush Grand Prix are made by the same manufacturer. I agree and have discontinued purchasing Silverbrush Grand Prix because of their inflated price. They are exactly the same brush with different paint on the handles. The brush heads undoubtedly come from the same factory in Japan with no distinction made between which heads go to which colored handles. The handles of both brands are also exactly the same size, balance and length in all sizes.

Recently I bought 20 Trekell brushes in flats, egberts and filberts. The bristles were molded inconsistently, some curvey, others held the proper shape. The flats were good and long but lost more hairs than the other brands, as if the bristle is not glued deeply enough into the ferrule.

Incidentally Silverbrush Grand Prix Extra Long filberts are more expensive the regular size filberts but appear to wear differently. They are also less responsive than plain old Robert Simmons Signet egberts

Joan Breckwoldt · 07-12-2006, 05:17 PM

Hi Chris,

I'm so glad you shared your experience with Trekell brushes. From the recommendations so far, I was about to give them a try. I may still give them a try, but maybe just one or two.

I'm interested in your comments about the Robert Simmons Signet bristle brushes. I do think they're great, but they sure don't last. I have to admit though, I probably don't take as good a care of them as I should. After I use them I don't clean them immediatly, I end up putting them in the fridge for a few days, just in case I need the same brush for a "touch-up". Guess that's a bad idea.

thanks,

Joan

Richard Bingham · 07-12-2006, 05:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joan Breckwoldt

. . . bristles start to splay out after about 3 paintings . . .

How do you clean your brushes, Joan? I'd be interested to know if the "Whitaker Treatment" outlined above (below?) might help, particularly applying a conditioner and shaping the brush after washing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kris Kolupski

. . . Richard said earlier that Dick Blick Masterstroke and Silverbrush Grand Prix are made by the same manufacturer . . .

Disclaimer, Kris . . . since I don't know for sure I said I think they may be . . . I'm glad you concur!

I've found the Trekells a mixed bag for quality control. Some of the filberts I bought were cipped to shape, but not all of them. They are the kind of brush that one should "hi-grade", choosing the best from a big handful of 'em. For my part, they are great value, because the best of them are as good as the best I've seen from other mfgrs, and the price is incredibly attractive. They are overall very good quality, if a bit inconsistent.

Michele Rushworth · 07-12-2006, 05:55 PM

The Trekells I buy (and have had very good results with) are all synthetic golden Taklons. I don't use bristle brushes too much since they are a bit of a pain to clean and leave more pronounced brush stroke marks.

Joan Breckwoldt · 07-15-2006, 03:08 PM

Hi Richard,

This is how I clean my brushes: I swish them around in paint thinner I get by the gallon from the hardware store. I do this out in the garage. (I use turpenoid when I'm indoors, I take two painting classes and both instructors insist we use odorless turp in class, so I just use this whenever I'm inside at home too.) Anyway, I swish the brushes and wipe them on a paper towel. I repeat until the brushes are clean. Then I bring them inside and use some dishwashing detergent and warm water mixed up in the palm of my hand to clean them further if necessary, which it usually is. Then about half the time I clean them with 'Old Masters' brush cleaner. Then I'm done.

I'm pretty gentle with the brushes during this process. I think my biggest problem is probably not cleaning them immediately after use.

thanks for your interest,

Joan

Julie Deane · 07-15-2006, 08:28 PM

I'm using vegetable oil instead of thinner these days for my softer brushes. I immerse them in the oil, rubbing them gently against the special brush cleaning screen (I think it's a Bob Ross cheapie that fits into a coffee can, but it works great) to remove paint. I wipe off the excess oil on paper towels or rags, then continue cleaning the brushes with water and hand soap, as previously described. Bristle brushes may need the OMS to remove the paint better.