Olive oil for cleaning brushes?

[Richard Budig]

I heard a painter (somewhere) say he/she (it's been a long time) used that redish lamp oil they make for those wick things that float on water/oil. (Can this be right?) Anyway, it supposedly worked great for cleaning brushes.

As for olive oil -- it's too expensive, and tastes too wonderful in sautees and salads.

Otherwise, I use a good swish in my cleaning can, and then soap and water until they're clean.

[Juan Martinez]

Hi Richard

I too have heard of artists using Kerosene (I wonder if that is the stuff you're thinking of?). In fact, I have a friend who swears by it. She just leaves the stuff in her brushes overnight after a decent cleaning in the kerosene. The next day, she cleans them off with mineral spirits and/or some oil and she's good to go. She claims the brushes stay soft and don't spread out or anything. She uses soap-and-water on them about once a week, only. Her reference for using kerosene is from a text describing the studio practice of an apprentice of the 19th century British painter, sir Gerald Kelly.

I'd be curious to know what is wrong with kerosene, as I have no doubt there is something. My guess is that it leaves way too many residues behind.

Also, if anyone is reading this who participated in the thread originally, I have it on some relatively good authority that Loriva brand walnut oil is a good one to use. It is apparently pure and can be found even at supermarkets (as opposed to health food stores). In either case, it is surely less expensive than "artists" brands. I often use sunflower oil or safflower oil, but the good thing about walnut oil is that it is a true drying oil and can be used in the painting, which the other ones cannot. (Without a drier added, safflower will not dry.)

Juan

[Marvin Mattelson]

Juan,

I had a student using kerosene in one of my workshops. It caused another student who was working nearby to get pretty sick. I think the fumes are pretty toxic.

I have tried various walnut oils for brush cleaning. In my experience the non-artist ones are thicker so the sediment stays suspended. This requires more frequent replacing of the oil in my cleaning jar. The M Graham walnut oil isn't as viscous so it can be used for a longer period of time before I dump it out.

[Steven Sweeney]

The artist who 8 years ago generously gave me her copy of John Carlson's "Carlson's Guide to Landscape Painting" had inserted a note indicating that some of the materials information was outdated, such as the reference to cleaning brushes with kerosene. She did not, however, say why, though the earliest copyright date on the book is 1929 and the simple fact is that plenty of science has been brought to bear on the subject since then.

I mention it only to offer one possible source for the advices that have led others to use kerosene, since this is a very frequently referenced text. Without recommendation or comment as to the soundness of this practice, I note Carlson's advice:

For the best care of brushes, I recommend keeping on hand a small (2-quart) pail, preferably of enamelware, filled with kerosene. Immediately after the day's painting, wash or swab the brushes out in the kerosene and wipe dry with a rag, much in the manner of a water-color brush in water. I have found this method much more conducive to long life in a brush than any other method. * * *

Never abuse your brush with soap and scrubbing. Use kerosene. If a brush becomes hard and stiff with old paint, through neglect, do not throw it away; soak it for half an hour in a good paint remover and then rinse it in kerosene. Wipe with a rag.

As an end note, I was amused there by the words "through neglect." Those familiar with Carlson's manner will know that he is not reticent to point out the failures and inadequacies inherent in the careless thinking and procedures of "the beginner."

[Michele Rushworth]

Perhaps this will be the solution to a plein aire dilemma I have. We are flying to a vacation spot in Mexico soon, and I hope to spend lots of time painting.

We will be going to an area where I expect it will be impossible to buy mineral spirits -- and I can't bring them on the plane. But the corner grocery stores will sell olive oil!

[Mike McCarty]

In a remote area, on a frozen lake, two men found themselves ice fishing fairly close to one another. One man could not catch a fish to save his life but noticed that the other man was hauling them in. He finally approached the man and asked: I notice that you are having a lot of luck here, what's your secret? The man looks up and mumbles something incoherent. I'm sorry, the man says, I didn't catch what you said. Once again the man mumbles incoherently. Again the man responds, I'm not understanding what you are saying, can you be more clear? Finally the man bends over, spits on the ground, and then says "you've got to keep the worms warm."

Michele, while on your flight, you could hide a vile of mineral spirits between your cheek and gum. When someone speaks to you just mutter "plein aire." I'll bet they leave you alone.

[Michele Rushworth]

...or send me to Guantanamo as an enemy combatant.

[Wayne McMichael]

When I was sign lettering by hand from about 1985-1990, I always cleaned my brushes well with mineral spirits and then dabbed them in the olive oil before putting them up. It would keep them nice and supple. Then clean them before painting again of course.

I have not used them since but still have them and they are just fine, still covered with olive oil. We always used the most expensive olive oil but I forgot the name. An old sign painter taught me that. I don't think I would ever put soap and water on my oil brushes though. I would think the soap would have detrimental effects on the bristles, making them dry out.

[Michele Rushworth]

What would you use to get the olive oil out? The mineral spirits?

[Wayne McMichael]

Yes Ma'am.