Thickened linseed oil

[Jean Kelly]

Hi,

Can I mix walnut oil, thickened linseed, and oms for a workable medium?

I just got thickened linseed oil and wow, is this stuff slick. But too much drag for me, I need to thin it. I've looked up different formulas and most use stand and turps.

Jean

[Michael Georges]

Jean:

By "thickened" linseed, I assume you are talking about Stand Oil? I think a better medium might incorporate a small amount of a resin (Canada Balsam/Venice Turp) or a varnish (Damar) - for better adhesion. I make a nice medium that incorporates Stand Oil, Canada Balsam, and oil of spike lavender (or turps) that works really nicely.

I don't use OMS or MS in paint, but do use it to clean brushes. I just don't think it mixes with oil paints as well as turpentine or spike.

I know that was not the answer you are looking for, but options are always good to consider...

[Jean Kelly]

Hi Michael, thank you, this is the kind of info I was looking for.

It's "sun thickened". Is that the same as stand oil? I was trying to stay away from turps, due to the odor. I'll try the oil of spike, sounds interesting with a nicer odor. I have venice turp, so I'll try that instead. What proportions do you use? I love the way the paint looks and feels with the thickened oil, but there is so much drag! And the glazes are wonderful.

Jean

[Michael Georges]

Sun thickened is partially polymerized, whereas Stand Oil is thickened in the absence of oxygen at temperature.

Try mixing your medium 1 part oil to 1/2 part Venice to 3 parts turps or spike.

I do this with Stand Oil, Canada Balsam and Spike - 1-1-3. I would reduce the amount of resin to 1/2 part if you use Venice Turps over Canada Balsam.

It will be touch dry in about 1.5 - 2 days depending on volume of medium to paint.

[Jean Kelly]

Thanks Michael,

My carpenter friend is making me mdf panels with the floating supports on the back. Then I'll be gessoing them with different finishes for pastel and oil and trying my hand at applying linen directly to the board. I have about 20 panels coming so it should keep me busy for a while.

This new medium should be fun to work with on the panels, next I'll try Maroger. I'm feeling adventurous again.

Jean

[Michael Georges]

I absolutely love the Maroger too. It is top notch!

[Leslie Bohoss]

Hi!

Michael,
A question about drying time .
You wrote ca. 1.5- 2 days to touch.. Could you paint over it without any danger?
Can you confirm my experience accordingly to the following layers: they need more and more time to dry, or can happens the next layers destroys some parts on the old one? Is there a test or something to find out when can be do it without this seamy dissolving effect?
(Tested medium: Maroger and your Canada Balsam mix)

Thanks.

[Michael Georges]

The medium with the spike in it will bite into the underlayers more easily than the Maroger., so you will want to let it dry for a bit longer. I have found that I can usually paint over it again within 2 days with no issues unless I was really scrubbing. Substituting turpentine instead of the spike would make it slightly less volitile, but I wonder about how it might affect the handling properties of the medium. I have only made it with spike thus far.

Maroger is generally touch dry the following day and you can certainly paint over your layers within 24 hours with no real problems.

[Chris Saper]

Hey, Michael!

In the far reaches of my memory I recall taking a class with ( I think) Sovek - he used stand oil regularly. It leaves a freshly varnished, wet look, but I could not figure out to do a final varnish that wouldn't just bead up. Is this my imagination?

[Jean Kelly]

How soon can I start using this medium on my painting? I'm talking about the fat over lean rule. My first layer of paint is on, with no medium at all, now I'm itching to start with this luscious stuff. I'm using thickened oil, venice turps and turpentine. I don't have spike yet or Canada balsam so am starting with what I do have. It stinks though, I keep it covered all the time.

Jean