Thickened linseed oil

Jean Kelly · 03-07-2005, 12:34 AM

Thanks Michael,

My carpenter friend is making me mdf panels with the floating supports on the back. Then I'll be gessoing them with different finishes for pastel and oil and trying my hand at applying linen directly to the board. I have about 20 panels coming so it should keep me busy for a while.

This new medium should be fun to work with on the panels, next I'll try Maroger. I'm feeling adventurous again.

Jean

Michael Georges · 03-07-2005, 01:25 AM

I absolutely love the Maroger too. It is top notch!

Leslie Bohoss · 03-10-2005, 03:51 PM

Hi!

Michael,
A question about drying time .
You wrote ca. 1.5- 2 days to touch.. Could you paint over it without any danger?
Can you confirm my experience accordingly to the following layers: they need more and more time to dry, or can happens the next layers destroys some parts on the old one? Is there a test or something to find out when can be do it without this seamy dissolving effect?
(Tested medium: Maroger and your Canada Balsam mix)

Thanks.

Michael Georges · 03-10-2005, 08:03 PM

The medium with the spike in it will bite into the underlayers more easily than the Maroger., so you will want to let it dry for a bit longer. I have found that I can usually paint over it again within 2 days with no issues unless I was really scrubbing. Substituting turpentine instead of the spike would make it slightly less volitile, but I wonder about how it might affect the handling properties of the medium. I have only made it with spike thus far.

Maroger is generally touch dry the following day and you can certainly paint over your layers within 24 hours with no real problems.

Chris Saper · 03-10-2005, 10:18 PM

Hey, Michael!

In the far reaches of my memory I recall taking a class with ( I think) Sovek - he used stand oil regularly. It leaves a freshly varnished, wet look, but I could not figure out to do a final varnish that wouldn't just bead up. Is this my imagination?

Jean Kelly · 03-11-2005, 12:39 AM

How soon can I start using this medium on my painting? I'm talking about the fat over lean rule. My first layer of paint is on, with no medium at all, now I'm itching to start with this luscious stuff. I'm using thickened oil, venice turps and turpentine. I don't have spike yet or Canada balsam so am starting with what I do have. It stinks though, I keep it covered all the time.

Jean

Michael Georges · 03-11-2005, 10:33 AM

Hello Chris:

Witnout doubt a large amount of stand oil will create a pretty high level of gloss, and the medium I spoke about does add a jewel like quality to the paint rather typical of stand oil and of canada balsam. I have not had any problems varnishing over the surface of paintings using this medium however. I always try to use no more than 20% medium to paint, and even when I do get a little more medium in the mix it has not been a problem for me.

I have found that one of the most important things about varnishing is temperature - both the temperature of the surface and the temperature of the varnish. Warmth of both really helps coverage, and reduces bubbles I find.

Michael Georges · 03-11-2005, 10:40 AM

Jean:

That is one benefit of the mixture with Canada Balsam and Spike - it smells like a pine forest!

When you use it depends on how many layers you usually build, and frankly how thick you lay in the paint. I know one artist that mixes a "lean" version for lower layers that has 4 parts spike rather than 3.

If you build a lot of layers thinly, you should be ok to use it from the mid-layers on, being mindful of the % of medium to paint.

Without a doubt, this is not a "fast" medium. It is great for plein aire, oil sketches, alla prima work, or for passages where you will not go there again for a couple of days. If you need to paint again the very next day, you may want to consider a medium that has a drier in it like Maroger, or an alkyd, etc.