Dripping varnish

[Melinda Roeleveld]

I varnished a large portrait with Gamvar and it looked pretty good, but I saw that I had missed a few places so gave it a second coat a week later. I decided to paint on the varnish this time with a wide soft brush in a more systematic way, but to my disappointment it now looks like parts dripped! (It was a very humid day.) Does anyone know how I can smooth out the uneven places without ruining the entire work?! Thanks for any advice.

[Michele Rushworth]

I would contact the Gamblin company. They're pretty good with their customer support. You may have to remove the varnish with a solvent in those places and re-apply.

[Marvin Mattelson]

By all means contact Gamblin and see what they have to say. Gamvar is designed to be easily removed (compared to traditional varnishes like Dammar) with mineral spirits (Gamsol!). This is a major reason that conservators favor it.

Personally, I don't think that applying a second coat of varnish over the first was such a good idea. W hen you apply varnish over a slick surface there isn't very much for it to grab on to! Why put two pieces of glass over a picture? Also was your painting lying flat when you applied the varnish?

When you apply the varnish you have a reasonable amount of time to go over the coat and smooth it out. Sometimes certain areas don't cover as well because of different degrees of oil saturation in the paint layers and some small dry spots may open up. Just give the the varnish a couple of minutes to begin to set up and go over the dry areas again without adding new varnish to your brush (sometimes you might have to add a little).

Continue this procedure until the varnish bridges the dry areas. This technique works for me and the results are always terrific. I also add some Gamblin wax medium to cut down the gloss (2 tablespoons per jar of Gamsol). Good luck.

[Jen Reinstadler]

Please clarify. You add 2 Tblsp of wax to your solvent? How does this cut the gloss of the varnish? Do you thin your varnish?

[Marvin Mattelson]

Jen,

I mix up the Gamvar and add 2 tablespoons of Bee's Wax Medium by Gamblin. It knocks down about 30% of the gloss, without having to sacrifice any of the depth. My clients can't believe that their portraits look even better.

First I follow the procedure for preparing the Gamvar. This takes about a day. Then I begin to mix the bee's wax medium with a little bit of the fresh Gamvar in a separate jar. I keep adding in more Gamvar s-l-o-w-l-y and shake, shake, shake and stir, stir, stir. Eventually I'll add this "slurry" (Robert Gamblin's word) to the remaining varnish. I shake it very well until there are no more little remnants of bee's wax remaining. You can rest when your arm gets tired. It's well worth the time and effort.

Hope this helps!

[Melinda Roeleveld]

Thank you Marvin and Michele for your tips. I did get an answer from Robert Gamblin himself about this problem and now know what went wrong. I should have applied the varnish with the painting in a horizontal position and probably should have just caught the places I missed the first time around (like you explained, Marvin). I wish there had been some instructions somewhere about the application process. I think my only option is to slowly remove it all with Gamsol. I am not looking forward to this, but I have no choice. I may add the wax this time as well. Another question I have is about the "brush it until it is dry" method I read about. Won't that cause it to get sticky or show brush marks (and leave hairs)? One person uses a silk bob instead of a brush. Any more advice on all this??
Thanks again!

[Jen Reinstadler]

Marvin,

I have this image of you in a long robe and pointed cap covered with ancient symbols, cackling madly as you tend bubbling beakers in a crumbling tower laboratory!

And in reality, ancient alchemy and art do overlap. I listened to this fascinating book on tape (while painting, course) called The Arcanum by Janet Gleeson. It's the true story of the development of the highly secret formula for European porcelain.

[Marvin Mattelson]

Melinda,

It takes several hours for the varnish to dry to the touch. The technique I'm describing would probably go for no more that 15-20 minutes, or less! The varnish is designed to flatten out so A very soft brush isn't an advantage. A good quality varnish brush with a beveled edge is your best bet as opposed to a brush whose bristles have been cut off sharply at the front edge.

Jen,

As a teacher I'm constantly trying to debunk all Alchemical references regarding the painting process. I think these associations where deliberately set by artists who wanted to throw the dogs off scent. Painting is an intellectual exercise and it's my contention that the best painters in history were just flat out smarter than their brethren.

As for my pointed hat and robe, wearing a black teeshirt and paint covered jeans is how I spend my days. One note of clarification, I don't cackle but I have been known to drool.

[Melinda Roeleveld]

I just had to finish up this thread on Gamvar by saying that my varnish is now wonderful, thanks to your help, Marvin! I successfully (and easily) removed the messed up job, let the canvas "dry" for a few hours, went out and bought a $25 varnish brush, mixed wax into the already disolved varnish (like how you explained) and brushed it on in a horizontal position while shining a spotlight onto the canvas at all angles. I didn't even want to examine the results for 3 hours because I was still a little afraid. Just now I went in to see the results. It's beautiful! I just had to let you know (and anyone else who is interested in this subject). I am REALLY sold on adding wax. The glare is gone, yet all the colors really pop out. You were right! Thank you again for this valuable help. Maybe I will post my portrait when I get the digital scan back. It's of 5 children on a square 48" x 48" canvas and my client's movers come get it Monday!

[Marvin Mattelson]

I'm happy it worked out well. I look forward to seeing your painting.