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-   -   Cohesive framing? (http://portraitartistforum.com/showthread.php?t=6235)

Lacey Lewis 09-09-2005 01:06 AM

Cohesive framing?
 
Hello!

There is a small possibility that I could have some of my work exhibited in the near future, so I am looking into framing them all. So far, I have a couple of things framed with simple black "gallery" style frames in wood or metal.

Should I have everything framed in a similar style if they might be shown together? Or is it OK to have a mix?

Some of my works are on regular canvas, some are on the deep 1 1/2" stretchers, at least one is on a wood panel, and some are pastels on paper. The only way I can think to make them all similar is to all have simple black frames, with either floater frames on the deep stretchers or leave the sides painted black. Well, that or spend a fortune on really deep frames for everything!

But is this acceptable? I want to show all of my work in the best light, and I know a couple would look really nice in a particular frame, but I don't want them to look a mess as a group.

Opinions, suggestions appreciated!

Lacey Lewis 09-16-2005 10:06 PM

Just adding a reply here to attract attention: Over Here!! *wave*

Chime in if you have any opinions or ideas. :D

Linda Nelson 09-16-2005 11:13 PM

When I exhibited my work for the first time 4 years ago at an art fair, I was faced with the same problem. I decided to think of my artwork and its presentation in the same regards as a fashion designer shows his work on the catwalk - you want the buyers to to drool at what they see, even if it's not what they'll actually be buying. I was lucky enough to get a wholesale framing account, which helped offset that I was picking the most flattering frames for my work, and just living with the price I had to pay to do it.

It really paid off. I got great commissions that first show, and I know for a fact that the frames helped show off the artwork, and more importantly, helped the client envision the work in their home. I had a variety of artwork to fit multiple genres, and selected frames that could be attractive to the most common interior design styles of my target market.

If you aren't adept at picking frames or knowing interior design, buy some interior design magazines of the type of homes that your buyer ASPIRE to be in, envision which paintings look good in which interior design space in the photos, and copy that style in the frame you choose for the painting.

Good Luck!

Lacey Lewis 09-16-2005 11:26 PM

Thanks Linda!

I actually do have some interior design magazines around, though they are a few years old from when I took an interior design class. Sometimes I worry that a frame I think would look great on a painting, like gold leaf frames, will strike someone as gaudy and that maybe I should stick to simple black frames.

You've given me the courage to try different frames! Thanks so much for the reply.

Linda Nelson 09-16-2005 11:39 PM

example
 
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that frame inthe center weighs like 20 pounds!

Lacey Lewis 09-16-2005 11:45 PM

You have no idea how helpful that pic is!

If I may ask you another question: What did you do about canvases the deeper, heavy duty stretcher bars, if you used them?

Part of my problem is that the only thing I am finding online for them are the floater frames, and I'd like it if I could find a frame that covers that 1.5" on the side. I would rather have each one in its own regular frame instead, say, of 5 in floater frames and 5 in assorted other frames.

Linda Nelson 09-16-2005 11:57 PM

Although I prefer to use the thinnest stretcher bar reasonable for a given size so that I can leave my framing options open, I find it really doesn't make a bit of difference if the painting is deeper than the frame (up to !/2 or so). Otherwise I have also been known to literally re-stretch a finished painting on thinner stretchers, if I felt the construction of the painting needed to be on the heaviest duty stretchers, but the frame selected is too delicate to handle the deep stretchers.

Limit how much you sacrifice your frame choices by something as technically drab (from a client's perspective) as to how thick the stretchers are. You'll have to live with this experience at the back end of a project anyway when doing a commission, so get to know your options so that you can make the conclusion of a project an enjoyable one for both you and the client.

Chris Saper 09-17-2005 09:06 PM

I have a somewhat different viewpoint, I guess. I look at an exhibit wall just as I look at a painting- it needs to hold together cohesively.

For me that means frames of a similar - not necessarily the same- look. When you are buying frames for exhibit, I think it makes sense to have something simple and flattering, so that if you need to change out paintings for the next exhibit, you can do so.

You'll need to be presenting first impressions to clients in a frame, so I think that simple and flattering makes sense. If you get into strongly designed or stylized frames it might be harder for someone to envision the painting in his home.

There are definitely two schools of thought on the issue, so you'll need to decide what is best for you.

For thick stretchers, you'll need to look at frames styles that incorporate a "back- up" or "extra depth." I think this is generally a good idea regardless of the stretcher, because otherwise the painting can't sit flat against the wall when it's hung.

Jen Reinstadler 09-19-2005 12:59 AM

Chris, just out of curiosity, what basic style have you chosen to use?

Do you think one's style of painting dictates that basic frame or is it mostly personal taste?

Chris Saper 09-19-2005 10:08 AM

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For my oil work, I use one of two types of wooden painted frames: a soft gold color, and a warm silver color; but have the same profiles. I use one or the other depending upon the dominant temperature of the painting. Most are very simple with a similar width of the frame - about 3 1/2 inches. Some have no decoration at all, some have a bit in the corners. But they are all compatible in appearance, and have a unified look when hung. (I group the golds and silvers separately - I don't like two-tone jewelry either :) ).

Below are some of my favorites from Abend Art. They are reasonably priced. I like the black liner for some pieces, it has a deco feel and makes a painting look formal.

For my western paintings, all have a weathered barnwood look - same frame width, some have a linen liner, some don't. Still they all look like part of a series when hung.

For my pastels, I framed them all the same. Same mat, same width of the mat, proportional to the frame, same gold satin finish metal frame. That's not to say I don't occasionally add a Baroque style in with the gold wood, or make other choices. But mainly I want a cohesive look in standard sizes so that I can change out paintings easily.

Chris Saper 09-19-2005 10:15 AM

PS Sorry Jen, I didn't answer your question completely.

Mainly I don't impose my taste on either presentation frames for commissions or for inventory for sale pieces (which are really rare for me anyway). I leave it to clients to impose their own taste on the frame that they ultimately buy, since I don't get into frame decisions with people.

As to style, I can't really say. In general a simpler paintng can support a more decorative frame and vice-versa.

That being said I know that there are many artists who make framing decisions for the client based on what the artist thinks is right for the painting. There's no right or wrong answer, just what works for you..

Linda Nelson 09-19-2005 11:39 AM

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As Chris said, it's whatever the artist thinks is the right mix for their work and business. Personally, I am at the other end of the spectrum from Chris - I not only frame every display portrait to what I think is the most flattering for each peice, I also offer my wholesale framing account to my clients, and either bring a selected frame corner sample to their house when I show them the finished painting, or invite them to meet me at the frame shop and we can pick something together.

This way I can know that the the the most flattering frame is going on the painting (since it's wholesale there's no guilt to go for whatever is right), my client is happy cuz I'm following the project to it's end by being helpful, saving them $, and taking the time to provide my "artistic opinion" which many seem to appreciate. In fact, EVERY client I have had in the last 4 years have chosen this option at the end.

Lacey Lewis 09-19-2005 12:34 PM

Thanks, Chris, for your input as well!

I have a lot to think about and I am going to try and take my time exploring my options.

For my pastels, I have decided to give them all a simple black mat with a black gallery metal frame. I have some paintings in simple black gallery wood frames; they are thin faced and have no detail at all. I feel like these are maybe too simple for paintings, especially once they are large.

I've been looking around and can see some frames that would look good on individual paintings, but am not sure I've found something that I'd like to be my standard frame. When I get back into town next week, I am going to take a trip to a frame shop that a friend reccomended and have a look around.

I would still love to hear any and all input about frames, especially for hanging as a show. :D

Michele Rushworth 09-19-2005 11:04 PM

I'd suggest you might want to keep three things in mind as you frame pieces for a show: they need to look like they are all of a high quality (not necessarily BE expensive, they just need to look like it!), they need to go well together as a group, they should be simple and classic enough in style that any client could envision them in their home.

I would get the very best frames you can afford and avoid the metal ones completely. Presentation is everything. I really mean that. A great frame can make a so-so painting look terrific and a bad frame can make a terrific painting look really crummy.

Check out www.jfmenterprises.net for some good quality standard size frames for paintings at great prices. You need to have a tax I.D./wholesale number to get access to their price list but as a professional you should have one of those already anyway.

Sharon Knettell 10-25-2005 11:26 AM

Lacey,

I have invested in a good canvas stretcher and taught myself to do my own gallery wraps.

It takes a bit of doing but you can ALWAYS hang it in a pinch or have what is called a float frame placed on the outside. They are relatively cheap, but quit effective. Both these approaches are quite contemporary so consider if they will work for your pieces. I don't mind some of my more flora-dora ones framed simply; as a matter of fact, most of my large pastels, ribbons, bows and all are framed in plexi boxes.

I have had frame companies send me catalogues with this kind of frame in it, they are probably available on the net as well.

Just a quick note, make sure your wrapped sides are thick, about 1 and 3/4' is good.

Lacey Lewis 11-04-2005 10:18 PM

Hi Sharon!

Yes, I gallery wrap all of my canvases. But, some are the deeper gallery wrap style, others are the standard depth, and then some are pastels. It's really tough to decide on frames that will all go together!

A few I think would look great in floater frames, and I painted the edges of these canvases black in anticipation of doing so. But then I worry that they will seem very out of place next to something framed much differently. I may need to stick with floater frames and plain wood 'gallery' frames.

I'm still going back and forth here, but I need to decide very soon because I just got a call this morning and 2 libraries would like to hang my work ASAP! :o


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